Nová role šperku v demokratické společnosti

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Title in English The New Role of Jewels in a Democratic Society
Authors

KŘÍŽOVÁ Alena

Year of publication 2019
Type Article in Proceedings
Conference Společenská rolemódy po vzniku Československé republiky
MU Faculty or unit

Faculty of Arts

Citation
Web https://www.lib.cas.cz/23488/konference-historie-odivani-v-ceskych-zemich-2018-spolecenska-role-mody-po-vzniku-ceskoslovenske-republiky/
Keywords fashion; jewel; Artěl Society; Bohemian garnets; patriotism
Description A noticeable transformation in the understanding of jewels dates back to the 19th century. On the one hand, there was jewelry made of precious metals and stones, that was favored by aristocrats and wealthy bourgeoisie whereas a new category of jewellery made of cheap raw materials formed on the other; especially serial production of fashion jewelry that imitated the more complex goldsmith production. This trend continued over the next century, although jewellery was designed by artists who had an ambition to imprint artistic quality on non-expensive material, mainly alloys of base metals and plastic instead of copying luxurious jewellery. In the Czech lands, Artěl Society members focused on the availability of art and its inclusion in everyday life before WWI; however, it was not until the newly emerged democratic ideals of Czechoslovakia that set a favorable atmosphere to implement these ideas. Furthermore, using precious stones from demestic deposits, mainly Bohemian garnets was a manifest of patriotism. Jewellery no longer demonstrated wealth but rather was an artistic accessory the look of its bearer.
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